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Build It!
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Important note:
Please
read and follow these instructions carefully, step by
step! Have a one member of your group read each step
aloud to be sure the instructions are clearly understood.
Do not proceed until each step has been completed.
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Tools
- Scissors
- Utility
knife
- Hot
glue gun and glue sticks
- Metal
or plastic ruler
- Robertson
screwdriver, no. 2
- Pencil
- Electrical
tape
- Digital
voltmeter with probes equipped with alligator
clips
- 4
rare earth magnets
- Pencil
sharpener
- Sand
paper or emery cloth
- Push
pin
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Materials
- 1.5-litre plastic water bottle
- Large piece of corrugated cardboard (approx.
60 cm by 40 cm, cut with corrugations running
its length)
- Wooden base (plywood, particle board, or solid
wood, approx. 14cm by 30 cm, at least 15mm thick)
- 1 wood screw (#8, 3/4" Robertson)
- Wooden dowel, 30 cm by 6 mm (1/4")
- Magnet wire (100m, 24 gauge enamel coated)
- Rectangle of corrugated cardboard, 4cm by
16cm cut with corrugations running perpendicular
to the long axis of the rectangle.
- White glue
- nail or awl
- Paper Templates: Please download the following
templates separately, and print according to
printing instructions.
Printing
Instructions [PDF Format - 37 Kb]
Base [PDF
Format - 131 Kb]
Frame [PDF
Format - 179 Kb]
Rotor [PDF
Format - 113 Kb]
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- Prepare the Templates
Included with these instructions are three paper templates,
labeled "Base, Frame, and Rotor". These need to be glued
down on either cardboard or wood before you can proceed
with the assembly of your turbine.
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- Cut out the "Base Template" to fit the rectangular
base board using your scissors.
- Apply a very thin, even layer of white glue to the
back of the paper "Base template", being sure to cover
the entire back surface of the template. Apply the template
to the wooden board, and set it aside to dry.
- Cut out the 3 pieces of the frame template and the
parts from the "Rotor templates" sheet.
- Apply a thin layer of white glue to the back of the
paper "Frame templates" and "Rotor templates", carefully
place on cardboard, and let dry. As you glue down the
frame templates, be sure their long axis is parallel
to the corrugations in the cardboard.
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Assemble the Frame
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The frame of your turbine consists of 4 parts: the top and
two side pieces made of corrugated cardboard, and the base,
which is from a short piece of plywood or 2 by 6 lumber.
CAUTION! The utility knife
is sharp, and can cause serious cuts. Extend the blade
only as far as needed to cut through the cardboard, and
lock the blade in place!
- Cut out the sides and tops of the frame pieces using
the utility knife. The metal ruler can be used to help
make the cuts straight. You may use the bottom surface
of the board as a cutting board to prevent damage to
the tabletop.
- Using a nail or awl, make a small hole in the center
of the wooden base. Turn the screw into the wood so
that it projects above the board by about 4mm.
- Set the blade of the utility knife so that it projects
about 2 mm from the handle, and make shallow cuts along
the dotted lines on the frame parts where shown. The
cuts allow the cardboard to bend smoothly along straight
lines.
- Gently bend the frame parts as shown.
- Glue the uprights to the board at the locations shown
on the base template using hot glue.
- Score and bend the top frame support so that it spans
the distance between the two side pieces. The pinhole
should be centered directly over the screw. Use a drop
of hot glue on each side support to hold the top support
in place.
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Assemble and Mount the Coils
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- Make a winding jig by folding a small piece of corrugated
cardboard in half and securing with tape. The jig should
measure 3cm by 8 cm when completed.
- Cut 8 short (4 cm) strips of electrical tape, and
set them aside.
- Leaving a wire lead of about 5 cm, start winding the
first coil on the jig. Form a compact coil with 200
turns of wire, ending with another 5 cm lead. Cut the
wire with wire cutters or scissors.
- Carefully slip the coil off the jig, and secure it
on each side using the two strips of electrical tape.
- Using a piece of sandpaper, remove the enamel insulation
from the ends of each lead, exposing about 1 cm of bare
wire.
- Repeat steps 1 through 5 to make three more coils.
- Loosely position all 4 coils on the base, according
to the "clockwise" / "counterclockwise" markings on
the base template. It helps to trace the path an electron
might take through the coils, starting at one end. Ensure
each coil is arranged so that an electron moving through
the wire follows each coil, alternating between clockwise
or counterclockwise directions.
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- When you are sure you have oriented the coils correctly,
connect the ends of the wire coils by twisting the bared
ends together tightly.
- Check your connections: Set a multi-meter for measuring
electrical resistance (Ohms). Connect the probes to
the two free ends of the wires from the coils. A good
connection should yield a resistance reading of 7 to
10 Ohms (a lower reading indicates an even better connection).
A large reading means that you have a poor connection
between two or more of your coils. You may need to check
each connection individually, and re-sand the wires
before reconnecting to ensure all the insulation has
been removed.
- Once you are confident the coils are properly positioned
and connected, glue them down on the stator disk. Use
a blob of hot glue under each to ensure they will not
shift.
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The Rotor
The rotor is a rotating disk equipped with magnets. This
disk will spin near the coils to induce an electrical current.
CAUTION: In this section you
will be using the hot glue gun. Be careful not to get
the hot glue on your skin--it burns!
- Use a nail or an awl to punch a hole through the center
of the cardboard rotor disk. Be careful not to bend
or deform the cardboard while you are doing this.
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a compass to identify the pole of a magnet.
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- Carefully separate the magnets (some magnets may very
strong and may require a ruler to pry them apart.)
- Identify the north pole on each magnet, and mark it
with a felt pen. Some magnets may have a mark (a red
dot or some other mark) to identify which surface is
the north pole. If there is no mark, you may need to
use a magnetic compass to help identify the poles.
- Put a generous blob of hot glue on the center of the
first circle and press a magnet down firmly onto the
blob. Be sure mount the magnets so that their poles
alternate, as shown on the template.
- Do not mount the next magnet until the glue holding
the first one is cooled properly.
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The Turbine
- Using a nail or awl, punch a hole in the middle of
each turbine end piece as marked (this is where your
wooden dowel will slide through).
- Using the utility knife or scissors carefully cut
the top and bottom off the plastic pop or water bottle,
to make a cylinder with open ends.
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- With the scissors, cut the plastic cylinder lengthwise
into two equal halves. These bottles usually have faint
lines on their surfaces that show the edges of the mould
used to make them. These lines make an excellent guide
for cutting the bottle into two perfectly equal halves.
- Check the fit of the end pieces of the turbine with
the plastic cylinder halves. You may need to trim either
the plastic or the cardboard to get a better fit.
- Apply a "bead" of hot glue onto the curved edge of
one of the cardboard end pieces. Quickly position one
of the cylinder halves onto this edge, holding it steady
for about 20 seconds while the glue cools and hardens.
CAUTION: Be sure to apply
the glue to the cardboard and not the plastic! The
hot glue will deform the plastic if applied directly,
and make it difficult to assemble the turbine.
- Apply glue to the second end piece, and position it
onto the cylinder you glued in step 5.
- Use
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the glue gun to apply hot glue to the remaining halves
of each end piece, then add the second cylinder. This
operation may take two people, one to hold the partially
assembled turbine, the other to position the plastic
half-cylinder onto the hot-glued end piece.
- Use a pencil sharpener to make a point on one end
of the wooden dowel. Round off the point using the sandpaper.
- Check the fit of the turbine shaft in the frame by
placing its sharpened point in the center screw and
standing it inside the frame. The top of the dowel should
just fit under the top frame support. Cut the doweling
as necessary using the utility knife.
- Insert a push pin through the pinhole location and
into the top of the dowel. The dowel should turn easily
and freely inside the frame.
- Remove the push pin, and remove the dowel from the
frame. Carefully push the dowel through the nail holes
in the end pieces of the turbine. Slide the turbine
on the dowel so that about 3 cm of the dowel sticks
out above the turbine end pieces.
- Recheck the turbine vanes and shaft for fit inside
the frame. The turbine vanes should spin easily without
hitting the sides of the frame. Add a bead of hot glue
to the top and bottom of the end pieces where the dowel
comes through to fix the turbine vanes to the shaft.
You are now ready for the final assembly and testing
of your wind turbine!
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Final Assembly
The object of this stage is to position the magnet-equipped
disk so it spins smoothly, and as close to the coils as
possible. The closer they are to the coils, the more electricity
they will make.
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magnets should pass as close to the coils
as possible.
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- Carefully push the pointed end of the turbine shaft
through the top of the rotor disk at its exact center.
The magnets should be facing down. Avoid bending the
cardboard. Slide the disk so that about 2.5 cm
of the dowel projects from the cardboard.
- Check the position of the rotor disk on the dowel
by
placing it inside the frame and re-inserting the push
pin. The magnets should turn freely without striking
the coils or snagging the wire between them. If necessary,
press the wires down and out of the way, and press the
coils in to a flatter shape to ensure they do not interfere
with the magnets.
- The disk should spin smoothly without wobbling. If
the disk wobbles, you will have to adjust the angle
a bit. Make small adjustments to the height and angle
of the disk so that it spins smoothly, and as close
to the magnets as possible.
- If you are satisfied with the position of the disk,
add a bead of hot glue around the dowel where it comes
through the top surface of the cardboard disk. You can
do this without removing it from the frame. Recheck
the rotor disk by spinning it. You can make small adjustments
to the disk's position and angle as the glue sets.
- After the hot glue cools, remove the rotor and turbine
assembly from the frame. Reinforce the disk with an
additional bead of hot glue applied to the shaft where
it projects from the underside of the disk.
- Reassemble the turbine and check again to make sure
the clearance between the coils and magnets is correct.
You can make further adjustments by turning the center
screw out or in depending on whether you want to increase
or decrease the clearance between the coils and the
magnets.
Test It!
(Click to continue)
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Download:
Wind Turbine Construction Plans
[PDF Format - 827 Kb]
Printing Instructions for Templates
[PDF Format - 37 Kb]
Paper Templates
Base
[PDF Format - 131 Kb]
Frame
[PDF Format - 179 Kb]
Rotor
[PDF Format - 37 Kb]
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